Most people who have visited Bali twice believe they know it. They have done Uluwatu at sunset, eaten at Locavore, meditated at The Yoga Barn, and spent a day in Tegalalang. They have been to Savaya and survived the Kecak fire dance crowd and photographed the Lempuyang gate. What they have is a thorough knowledge of the layer of Bali accessible to anyone with good research skills and a few days to spend. The island has another layer — the one that requires local relationships, specific knowledge, and the willingness to ask the person who actually knows rather than the platform that recommends